PAUL SMITH
AUTUMN/WINTER ’21 MEN’S SHOW

For autumn/winter ’21 Paul Smith takes you on a journey through the subcultures that have signposted his career, remixing icons of British clothing design for a new generation.

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2020 provided a unique moment of reflection for Paul Smith, with his landmark 50th anniversary celebrations followed by the imposed introspection of lockdown. 2021 offers the opportunity to reset and rethink, resulting in remixed versions of some Paul Smith classics.

Key pieces nod to different subcultural moments that have influenced Paul over the last five decades of design. Tartan tailoring brings to mind 1970s ska, Terry Hall and The Specials. Generously proportioned wool coats, sheepskins and a modern take on the donkey jacket speak to 1980s new wave romanticism. Mohair knits are part punk, part preppy, while playing to Paul Smith’s great strength: stripes. Silk pajamas are confidently displayed, mixing a hint of 1970s psychedelia with the WFH mood of life in 2021. These individual references are confidently thrown together to create an eclectic “Best Of” album – a collection of rediscovered classics repackaged for a new generation.

A colour palette of rich, wintry greens, purples and browns are punctured by zesty highlights of lime, orange and pink. Floral prints create a sense of softness to sit in contrast with the utilitarian toughness of military jackets and heavy boots. As a pioneer of floral print for men, Paul continues to innovate with 3D florals printed onto leather and woven into fabric. A modernised paisley revives another Paul Smith signature pattern, while a Hawaiian print reminds Paul of the vintage shirts he would sell from his first Nottingham shop fifty years previous.

Julian Ganio’s father has long been a loyal customer and friend to Paul. Julian’s plundering of his dad’s Paul Smith archive for many years means he’s perfectly qualified to style the collection. The show features a troupe of Paul Smith characters, cast by Ben Grimes, each with their own unique personalities and interests – a true cross-section of the modern Paul Smith customer.

Director, George Harvey, turns his precise and refined eye to capturing the collection on film. Show music continues the magpie approach, selecting the highlights of many eras and genres. Imagine an extensive record collection, lovingly raided and remixed to create something new.