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For autumn/winter ’21 Paul Smith takes you on a journey through the subcultures that have signposted his career, remixing icons of British clothing design for a new generation.

Following in the footsteps of the men’s show, which premiered in January as part of Paris Fashion Week, the new Paul Smith women’s collection similarly presents a series of Paul Smith classics that have been remixed and reinvented for 2021.

This begins in outerwear, where oversized macs, a reversible sheepskin and a refined black wool coat, based on the popular Opera Tuxedo, are all updated versions of timeless styles that should be found in every woman’s wardrobe.

The fabrics and techniques of tailoring have been applied to more casual shapes to create everyday pieces with a refined edge. This is seen in an oversized shirt that’s cut from soft wool fabric and a cropped bomber jacket created from recycled wool with silk lining. Coordinated jacket and trouser sets also mix more relaxed shapes with smart tailoring fabrics to cater for the WFH world of 2021. When suits do appear they are softer in construction for added comfort. A new suit shape with a four-button blazer and 1970s references is a key style for the season. It is offered in gold, as well as check and striped options.

As with every Paul Smith collection, patterns, checks and stripes are prevalent. A modernised paisley revives another Paul Smith signature pattern. This motif appears on new dress shapes, knitted jumpers and a collection of tote and shoulder bags. Tartan tailoring and check patterns bring to mind 1970s ska and are styled with other check pieces. Striped mohair knitwear is part punk, part preppy, while vegan potato starch buttons on the cardigans give an added ethical edge.

A colour palette of rich, wintry greens, purples and browns are punctured by zesty highlights of lime, orange and pink. Floral prints create a sense of softness to sit in contrast with the utilitarian toughness of military jackets and heavy boots. As a pioneer of floral print for men, Paul continues to innovate with 3D florals printed onto leather and woven into fabric.

Presenting a familiar Paul Smith pattern in an innovative way, the new Painted Stripe bag series is an expressive take on the Artist Stripe motif, which has been added to high quality leather backpacks, totes and cross-body bags.


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